Although, to tell you the truth, I usually don't worry about it. It's never actually been an issue because I try everything on the live person at every step of the way anyway.
Laura
When I originally sewed the Underdress I basted it together using a zig-zag stitch and 3/8" seams, and saw that was too big. I did not trim any of the seam allowances after sewing since I was just basting.
After finishing the Underdress I had Swivel try it on and saw how much I needed to take the garment in. I calculated that if I used 5/8" seams that would make the garment snug enough, so I resewed all the seams at 5/8" and then trimmed the extra fabric out of the seams (actually, I am using a serger at this point, so that all happened automatically).
When I made the overdress I sewed it with 5/8" seams from the start. Note that if you made any alterations to the Underdress, the same alterations need to be applied to the Overdress -- you want the two layers to be as close to the same as possible, except one is longer than the other.
The logical next step would be to build the chiffon underskirt and attach it to the Underdress, and also start making and inserting the chiffon gores into the Overdress. However, I am awaiting the arrival of the chiffon :-) With this in mind, I'm going to skip ahead to the construction of the actual leotard that goes inside the garment.
Note that I have not sewn any of the layers together or done anything about sleeves yet. I'm not going to put the layers together until after I've added the chiffon skirts, and I'm putting the sleeves in last so that they will be attached to all the various layers.
Laura
[ 01-15-2002: Message edited by: Laura La Gassa ]
First of all I want to add my fervent thanks for writing such clear instructions and including pictures. It is a great public service! I'm definitely going to pick up a copy of that book you recommended.
Second, I have a question about the underdress. My recollection of my ballgown (not made by me, and of course I'm not at home where I can look at it) is that there was simply the dress over the leotard. What does the underdress do?
Thanks!
Sania
[ 01-10-2002: Message edited by: Sania ]
Laura
SWIVEL
This topic is a great reference, I'm following all the steps closely Thanks Laura for posting your "step by step gown construction project"!
What is your work area like? Do you have a large counter space/table for cutting out your material? That is where I have a most trouble unless I am sewing something that is very short. When you begin working with layers and layers of chiffon, limited space can be not only irritating but also can cause the material to slide and possibly end up being cut incorrectly.
How about a picture of your entire sewing area.
Thanks for all the tips.
You will be appalled at how messy I am.
Be back in a few,
Laura